Kyriakos (Ofto Kleftiko)

At Κυριάκος (Οφτό Κλέφτικο), the menu is refreshingly simple: this long-standing Nicosia tavern devotes itself almost entirely to ofto kleftiko, lamb slowly roasted for hours in brick wood-ovens until it falls off the bone. There's no need to deliberate over choices—the set menu is confirmed with you and arrives generously, pairing the succulent meat with melt-in-your-mouth oven potatoes, bulgur (pourgouri), a crisp salad with feta and tomato, tahini, yoghurt, olives, pickles and warm pita bread. The setting is a green, unpretentious backyard with an endearing retro character, filling up nightly with local families and regulars who have returned for years.

Open evenings Monday to Saturday, it draws a loyal crowd for its consistency, honest prices and fast, friendly service. Because the tables book out quickly on busy nights, reservations are strongly recommended. If you're seeking authentic, top-quality Cypriot flavour and one dish done exceptionally well, this is a Nicosia institution worth planning a visit around. Come hungry, order the ofto, and pair it with a cold beer.